Herbs: Key Ingredients to Turn an Ordinary Product into a Culinary Experience

By Mark Crowell, CRC


The adroit use of herbs goes a long way in characterizing the greatness of a cuisine. Think of pesto, that all-time great culinary paean to basil or Ras el Hanout, the Moroccan spice mixture that translates as “top of the shop.” Certain versions of this ubiquitous spice blend contain as many as 100 ingredients. Mexican cuisine has mole, considered the defining dish of the Oaxaca region, a rich, complex sauce that can contain more than 30 ingredients including chocolate and herbs. What would Caribbean cuisine be without jerk seasoning or Argentinean cooking without chimichurri? Thai foods are defined by the inclusion of galangal root, lemongrass and basil. Even All-American meatloaf gets an uplifting flavor boost from seasonings such as sage, thyme, dry mustard and garlic.

Trends in Herbs Today. More than ever, herbs are moving from supporting actors to starring roles in a number of cooking methods/techniques such as marinades, rubs, cures, brines, stocks, sauces and beverages—and don’t forget desserts and confections, too. Basil, rosemary and thyme have now become basil-berry sorbet, rosemary-lemon pound cake and thyme-scented vanilla panna cotta. Dagoba Organic Chocolate features a Mint with a Hint of Rosemary Bar and a Lavender with Blueberry Bar. Even further out on the culinary horizon, Vosges Chocolate makes a drinking chocolate mix called Bianca Couture that features Australian lemon myrtle and lavender flowers.

Even water has been given a gourmet flair—and health benefits—by adding herbal infusions. Ayala’s Herbal Water features six unique herbal flavor blends and is the first nationally available, organically certified, enhanced flavored water. Herb flavors include: Lemongrass Mint Vanilla, Lavender Mint, Lemongrass Thyme and Jasmine Vanilla.

The most popular herbs are associated with the cuisines showing the greatest popularity over the last few years—broadly, Latin (cilantro, oregano, parsley), Mediterranean (parsley, marjoram, rosemary, thyme and mint) and Asian (cilantro, chive, mint, Thai basil and lemongrass). Global fusion is also another big trend, with products emerging on the scene like a Japanese Niçoise salad dressing made with ground Japanese-style dried sardines mixed with shiso leaf, a pungent herb in the basil family.

Another area that is growing is fair trade certified herbs. Since herbs are grown around the world, they present an opportunity not only to improve flavor, but also to improve the communities that grow them. Mint, hibiscus and chamomile are available and Mountain Rose Herbs has also recently introduced fair trade certified dill, lemongrass, lemon balm, basil, oregano, parsley, rosemary and thyme.

In Good Taste and Good Health. Most of the herbs we use today as seasonings were originally medicines. Culinary herbs contain high concentrations of phenolic substances and antioxidants, some 1000 times more potent than vegetables. For example, oregano, which a USDA study revealed to have the highest antioxidant activity of 27 fresh culinary herbs, has been shown to have strong antibacterial properties that inhibit the growth of many kinds of bacteria, including some that cause serious foodborne illnesses. Basil is widely used in several countries, including Morocco, to reduce plasma cholesterol and the risk of atherosclerosis-related diseases. In addition, the carnosic acid found in rosemary and sage generates even more antioxidants, which have been shown to offer anticancer benefits. Other culinary herbs contain natural substances that play a role in cardiovascular health, metabolic health and combating inflammation.

Formulating Wisely—Choosing the Right Process
Herbs are available to product developers in a number of different forms. Choosing wisely will ensure you meet your flavor, functionality and cost targets.

Fresh
The Basics. Although fresh herbs usually are the most aromatic and flavorful, most processors rule them out because of shelf life issues. With the growing consumer trends for higher quality and fresher foods, however, more processors are finding a way to incorporate fresh herbs into formulations. Where this is seen most is in ready-to-eat prepared foods and perishables like breads. For example, de-stemmed rosemary is used by several baked goods companies, including Whole Foods private label, to give a deeper flavor to breads. This also extends into soups, dips and pesto spread—and even frozen foods. Companies such as Amy’s Kitchen are emphasizing use of fresh herbs, said Todd Smith, a sales representative for Jacobs Farm, which grows a large variety of fresh herbs. “Having a fresh product before freezing means that in the end it has gone through less processing,” he commented. “The less an herb has to go through from the field to the fork, the more flavorful it is.”

As far as shelf life goes, rosemary is a durable herb and can be stored for seven to 10 days, or more. Other longer-lasting herbs include chives, thyme and sage. Some, such as tarragon or cilantro, have smaller windows of freshness.

Purchasing Tips. Smith suggested making sure that you know the grower’s history and capabilities. Can they deliver herbs to you on a year-round basis? Also make sure that supplier has reliable shipping methods in place to ensure that the herb arrives in its freshest form. Find out exactly how long it will be from being picked to being delivered. It should be delivered within 72 hours, added Smith. Also ask about packaging used for transport. Smith said innovative packaging is available today that can help keep herbs at a constant temperature, which ensures better quality and longer shelf life.

Individually Quick Frozen (IQF)
The Basics. In the realm of processed herbs, frozen is the closest option to fresh. In fact, Tim Zylstra, who works in industrial sales for Van Drunen Farms, often calls IQF herbs “fresher than fresh,” noting that while fresh herbs can spend three to four days in processing and transport, IQF processing of herbs freezes in the flavor within three to four hours.

Because IQF herbs are free-flowing (while frozen), they are easy to handle and suitable for most large volume wet applications. Sauces, soups, pesto, pizzas and frozen entrees are ideal applications for IQF herbs. These herbs are also good from a food safety standpoint since bacterial growth is arrested in a frozen state.

However, Karen Ratner of Supherb Farms, which sells IQF and freeze-dried herbs, noted that IQF herbs are not the first choice for all manufacturing situations. “For instance, if using an injectable meat marinade process, IQF herbs will probably clog the equipment, but they work well in a vacuum-tumble process,” she said. She also suggested that if using IQF herbs in breads, the herbs should go into the dough, not on top where they will darken and could burn. Lastly, Ratner mentioned that if waterfall dispensing equipment is being used, IQF herbs are not the ideal choice because the equipment and surrounding area would need to be at freezer temperatures. “In cases like this, freeze-dried herbs are probably a better choice,” she said.

In some applications you can blend IQF herbs with vegetables or other ingredients to ensure even distribution and avoid clumping. IQF herbs can also go into other delivery systems such as pestos and purees and batch packs for ease of handling in a manufacturing or food service setting.

Purchasing Tips. Today there are a variety of IQF herbs available in organic including basil, cilantro, regular and Italian parsley, tarragon, oregano and sage. Quality, however, can vary depending on when the herb is picked and processed. Herbs should be harvested during peak season and cooled and frozen within a few hours of picking. This process results in product with consistent flavor, color, microbial stability and pricing throughout the year, Ratner said.

Processing among IQF companies can also vary. While most cut and de-stem the herbs prior to freezing, some, like Van Drunen, freeze the whole herb and then cut off the stem, which Zylstra said, “locks in the flavor.” Also find out how the herbs are sanitized. In some cases the herbs don’t even need to be blanched. Some herbs, such as basil, are a little more challenging. “If having the bright green color is important, then go with blanched,” Zylstra said. “This process prevents it from blackening.”

If you are looking for whole-leaf herbs like basil you will need to pay for hand labor, but a wide variety of cuts are available ranging from 1” down to 1/16”. While some herbs, such as garlic, are fairly easy to freeze, others are very delicate and require expertise to properly process. With this in mind, make sure you inquire about the supplier’s experience with each particular herb.

Keeping IQF herbs at a constant temperature is also a challenge. IQF herbs can clump and mat from repeated freeze-thaw cycles. This is a telltale sign they have been mishandled in distribution. Handling during processing is important as well. “They must be kept frozen until ready to use,” Ratner said. “If left out, they will darken in color and present micro issues,” she said. “For best results, store and use at -5°F.”

Freeze-dried
The Basics. Freeze-drying an herb consists of removing the water from the herb in a vacuum after it is flash-frozen. This avoids the heat and/or evaporation that catalyze enzymatic and chemical reactions and destroy certain components in the herb. Freeze-drying also does not involve the use of alcohol, which many consumers find objectionable. This process does not usually cause shrinkage or toughening of the material being dried. In addition, flavors and smells generally remain unchanged. “Freeze-dried herbs are so perfectly preserved that they are biochemically identical to the fresh counterpart—all essential oils, pigments, phytonutrients, polysaccharides and enzymes remain intact,” said said Steven Lattey, director of raw materials at Synergy Production Laboratories (SPL). “In essence, a freeze-dried herb is in suspended animation and will quickly reanimate when consumed.”

Freeze-dried herbs have a high-quality flavor delivery, a light density and are shelf stable. They also rehydrate quickly, are easily metered and have consistent particle size. Applications where they excel include spice bottles, breads, instant soups, herb blends, cheeses and dips or dairy mixes. Since this process preserves the bioavailability so well without the need for refrigeration, freeze-dried herbs are also ideal for functional foods and supplements.

Purchasing Tips. Most herbs freeze-dry well but the process is expensive. The most common herbs available in freeze-dried form are chives, basil, oregano, cilantro and parsley. There are also many functional freeze-dried herbs available such as ginkgo, nettle and burdock, just to name a few. Some processors may also custom-grow and freeze-dry herbs to meet specific needs.

Like IQF, it is important to find out how much time passes between picking the herb and processing it. SPL flash-freezes its herbs within one hour of harvesting and then freeze-dries them within 36 hours. Also, to ensure longer shelf life and potency, make sure that the packaging used blocks UV degradation and includes some measure to prevent oxidation.

Air-Dried or Mechanically Dried
The Basics. Air-dried herbs are less expensive than freeze-dried or IQF herbs and lend themselves to applications where premium flavor may not be necessary or can’t be afforded. They are easy to handle and have a shelf life of at least one year. Another advantage is the wide range of organic herb varieties, which is much greater than the IQF or freeze-dried categories. Dried herbs are also are more likely to maintain their piece identity in high-moisture environments like soups or sauces. The best uses for dried herbs include seasoning mixes, meat rubs and canned products.

Purchasing Tips. Although dried herbs are less costly than other forms, according to Gene Fogel, account executive at Pacific Spice, the price premium between organic and conventional can be as much as 200 to 300 percent—which is a much bigger difference than other processing methods.

Quality in air-dried herbs varies widely and needs to be monitored closely. Mechanically dehydrated herbs are typically dried at low temperatures in a belt oven. Control over heat and the finished moisture content of the dried herbs are critical to final product quality. Too much heat will volatilize essential oils, while leaving too much moisture will lead to reduced shelf life and possible mold problems. According to Susan Mead, sales executive for Organic Herbtrade, it’s also important to wait as long as possible to de-stem dried herbs. “We wait to cut the herb till right before it is shipped to a client,” she said. “This helps preserve the volatile chemicals and flavor.”

Also see what kind of testing is done on the herbs to ensure quality and safety, especially if herbs are coming from another country. Pacific Spice tests incoming herbs for volatile oil content, total plate count, Salmonella, E.coli and insoluble ash (non-plant material) depending on what information is provided with the shipment. Each lot undergoes “organoleptic evaluation,” or using the senses to ensure quality appearance, color, texture consistency, smell and taste. It is also important to pay close attention to expiration dates and warehouse rotation when visiting a prospective supplier.

Non-Leaf Products
The Basics. Non-leaf herb products include herb flavors, essential oils, oleoresins and extracts. Oleoresins are standardized, liquid extracts that contain volatile and nonvolatile components. Oleoresins, extracts, essential oils and flavors offer instant flavor release and dispersion. “You don’t need to bite into a spice particle to get the flavor,” said Danny Bruns, director of innovation for Kerry Ingredients. “These products are also great for top-noting spice blends when you need more delivery or have to deal with a harsh processing environment. This is particularly true for frying and where an herb flavor will fade over a long shelf life.”

Purchasing Tips. Compared to dried herbs, which can give a hay or grassy note, extracts and essential oils that use CO[2] critical extraction can provide a very clean flavor profile. The relatively low critical temperature and reactivity of CO[2] allows the flavor compounds to be extracted without extensive damage or denaturing.

The choice of which flavor or extract to use is dependent on whether the system the product is going into is oil- or water-based, the processing involved, and the desired flavor profile and cost considerations. “To ensure authentic flavor, our herb and spice extracts are 100 percent from the named source and have no added ingredients,” said Jeff Rakity, head of sales for The Elan Group. “We also process our extracts in a closed system so that the whole spice or herb profile is preserved.”

A Few Last Thoughts for Formulating with Organic Herbs
Before you spend the money on quality herbs, make sure you talk to your supplier regarding what you have to do on your end to preserve the quality of the herb. Most of the time, herbs should be added to your formula last so they don’t lose their volatile oils and top notes. Also make sure to protect your herbs from heat and moisture.

Food safety is also a big issue with herbs. Make sure that your supplier is taking proper steps to ensure that microbial growth is controlled in a manner that ensures food safety as well as quality. (For more information on this see the article “Successful Sterilization,” Organic Processing Magazine.)

Technicalities aside, no matter what product you are creating, organic herbs will create a more authentic culinary experience for your consumers. Experiment until you find the combination of herbs and processing methods that makes your product uniquely flavorful.

Mark Crowell, CRC, is the founder and principal culinologist at CuliNex, a consultancy specializing in the development of organic and natural food products. He is the former director of product development for Olive Garden Restaurants and Starbucks Coffee Co. CuliNex specializes in assisting food manufacturers, ingredient suppliers and multi-unit foodservice operators achieve their growth goals by developing and bringing successful products to market. You can reach Mark at mark@culinex.biz.