A Taste of the World:
Globally and Ethnically Inspired Ingredients

By Jerry Tenenberg


Ethnic cuisine is hot, but don’t just take our word on it—about every organization that works with or conducts research into any aspect of the food industry has the stats to back it up.

In January 2010, editors at the Food Channel compiled a list of the top trends, flavors and food influences of the past decade (2000-2009). Of the Top 10 Food Influencers, number one is Organic Foods, and number two is International Cuisines.

The National Restaurant Association produces an annual report on hot trends by surveying more than 1,800 chef members of the American Culinary Federation. According to the report, Regional Ethnic Cuisine ranked in the top 20 trends among 70 percent of the respondents. In that category, Ethnic Fusion, North African, Latin American and Southeast Asian topped the list. Ethnic condiments are also trendy in the Ingredients category, from Indian yogurt dishes like raita to spicy Thai sriracha and chutneys.

Americans are adventurous diners and seek out new flavors and experiences, whether in restaurants or home cooking. Years ago “Chinese food” was a catchall phrase but now educated palates understand the difference between regional fare such as Mandarin or Szechuan. Younger generations in particular have grown up with diversity and multicultural cuisines.

Kara Nielsen, a trend analyst for the Center for Culinary Development comments, “Basically, as we become more sophisticated eaters, we are learning foods exist regionally. We are starting to see that some of the Mexican food we like is coming from Oaxaca or the Yucatan Peninsula.”

Another factor contributing to the drive for global cuisine is the growth in Hispanic, Asian and Indian immigration, making more ethnic foods readily available in restaurants and groceries.

According to Michael Nenes, assistant vice president of Culinary Arts for The Art Institutes, “Ethnic food ingredients are widely available these days. You can go to the local grocery store and find the ingredients, whereas a few years back they weren’t as easy to find.”

Another indicator of the popularity of ethnic foods is that culinary students are now exposed to 23 international cuisines. “What the industry tells us is that they want culinary professionals who are aware of all the cuisines and really work with all of the ingredients,” says Nenes.

The Center for Culinary Development released a comprehensive report in December 2009 on emerging global cuisines which profiles ethnic trends that are making waves. While the report tracks many global influences, its top five most exciting trends were Peruvian, Moroccan, Korean, Japanese and “New” Southern regional American cuisines.

It’s not just specific flavors and ingredients that contribute to the rising interest in these ethnic foods, but a combination of elements. Many global cuisines, such as Japanese and Indian, start with a foundation of vegetables, legumes and grains that are healthful and economical. And the eating experience is part of the appeal; wrapping, dipping, chopsticks and finger foods are fun. Presenting new tastes and foods in forms Americans are familiar with, such as sandwiches, wraps, barbecues or rice bowls invites exploration of more
exotic cuisines.

The Center for Culinary Development’s Trend Mapping technique identifies whether culinary trends have longevity or are short-lived fads. The process includes five distinct stages that indicate whether a culinary trend has entered the mainstream. Here are those stages in brief:
• Stage 1: In upscale dining, ethnic and popular independent restaurants

• Stage 2: In magazines (Bon Appetit) and stores (Sur La Table) targeting culinary professionals and serious home cooks

• Stage 3: In mainstream chains (Applebee’s, Chili’s) and stores (Williams-Sonoma) targeting recreational cooks

• Stage 4: Mainstream magazines (Family Circle, Better Homes and Gardens) pick up the buzz

• Stage 5: Appears in quick-serve restaurants and starts or gains increased presence on mainstream grocery store shelves.

Stage 1 is the esoteric, exploratory phase where more unique ingredients, dishes and cooking techniques from global cuisines are presented to adventurous diners. Stage 2 is a confirmation of growing appeal, branching out from the upscale and local ethnic establishments to a broader base.

Many formulators and processors are entering a particular culinary trend development between Stage 2 and Stage 3—perhaps starting with ingredients and products for the commercial kitchen, especially when fast preparation is required. Rather than custom-create sauces or seasoning blends for Moroccan-based tagines or stews, chefs and commercial cooks can work with processors to formulate specific products and have those readily available in whatever form is most effective. The process where some of the ingredients are made from scratch and others are pre-prepared to facilitate production is often called “speed scratch.” It’s like the Rachael Ray version for commercial cooking.

Whether producing frozen or shelf-stable entrees, bottled sauces, dressings, spices, seasoning blends or teas and beverages for global cuisines, the trends are driving for regional authenticity.

According to Suvir Saran, co-executive chef of the acclaimed Indian restaurant Devi in New York, Indian cuisine can basically be broken into 4 broad categories, Northern, Southern, Western and Eastern, obviously with variations within those regions. The herbs and spices used in those regions are generally grown there as well. “In northern India we have the Garam Masalas, the hot mixes, which have cumin, coriander, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg and mace, so the spices are a little warmer. In southern India we have curry leaves, mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and chili peppers that are fried in oil, bloomed in oil to bring out their essential flavors.”

Dishes featuring dhals (lentils and beans as stews or soup), kormas (creamy sauce with braised meat or veggies) and paneers (fresh cheese with veggies) with rich, flavorful sauces, served with rice and Indian breads, are popular as frozen entrees and as shelf-stable packaged meals for quick and easy dining-in with an ethnic twist. While consumers love the taste of Indian food, many perceive the preparation of Indian meals to be daunting and time-consuming. Jarred curry and masala simmer sauces are making Indian food more familiar to American cooks, who create their own fusion cuisine at home blending India’s traditional sauces and seasonings with American-style roasted chicken and vegetables.

Julie Sahni, author and Indian food authority from New York, NY comments, “In Indian cooking, the principles lie in handling of spices, even though it’s a single subject, it’s a whole world.”

This principle applies not only to foods; if you thought chai was simply spiced tea made popular by Starbucks, think again. Tea drinkers are becoming as educated as wine connoisseurs, seeking regional varieties of herbal as well as white, green and black teas from around the globe. Traditional Indian Chai Masala typically starts with a base of a strong black tea such as Assam and has multiple spices determined by regional traditions including cardamom, white pepper, black pepper, cinnamon, ginger, star anise, cloves, nutmeg and others. Suppliers and formulators need to become equally educated and be prepared to source ingredients for the unique regional products being requested by manufacturers and ultimately by consumers.

North African cuisine is gaining in popularity, as demonstrated by a surge in traditional spice blends from Morocco such as Ras El Hanout, a blend of some 20 ingredients that vary regionally. Ras El Hanout literally means “head of the shop” from the custom of the market shop owner creating the blend to his own taste and the requirements and perhaps spending power of his customer. Ingredients may include cardamom, mace, galangal, long pepper, cubebs, nutmeg, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, rose buds, lavender flowers, grains of paradise, black pepper, turmeric and cantharides—the shiny green Spanish fly beetle, which is considered an aphrodisiac—and more spices. This renowned, warming Moroccan blend is used in rice and couscous stuffings and lamb tagines (stews).

Chilies are used extensively in nearly all global cuisines, but perhaps nowhere are they as diverse and abundant as in Mexico. The southern state of Oaxaca is called “the land of seven moles,” mole being a generic name for sauce.

Rick Bayless, chef and Mexican food expert from Frontera Grill and Topolobampo in Chicago, has traveled and lived in the capital city, also called Oaxaca, and discovered 27 varieties of chilies in the local markets, each with specific qualities. Red, slender Arbol chilies are fiery hot and used for table salsas. Huacle Negro chilies are the backbone of the famous Oaxacan black mole. Dusky Anchos have a sweet, complex flavor, “like a symphony in your mouth.” Mole is considered the national dish of mexico, yet most Americans are not familiar with mole. Regional moles are the core of Mexican cuisine. Besides chilies, moles include cumin, pumpkin seeds, allspice, cloves, black pepper, cinnamon and even chocolate and other seemingly exotic ingredients. Traditional processes include slow roasting and blackening of chilies, spices and other ingredients and grinding into a very smooth blended sauce.

With rare exceptions, the majority of herbs, spices and ethnic ingredients are readily available in organic form. For items that may be difficult to source, experienced formulators can often emulate a particular flavor profile to near perfection with available certified organic resources.

Of course, food safety concerns are top of mind, especially in today’s global marketplace. The key to safety for any product, whether sourced locally or globally, is a stringent quality assurance program that includes full traceability from the farm or wild setting (for wild harvested products) through the entire processing chain including: growing and harvesting, processing and handling, storage and shipping, customs, receiving and handling, independent lab testing and inventory management. And full traceability means products and processes are backed up with certification and diligent record keeping. This level of rigor and scrutiny is required in a global setting to maintain confidence in the quality of every product.

Whatever the cuisine, the opportunities are many for processors and manufacturers to provide commercial and individual consumers authentic global food and beverage products. The key as always is to focus on quality ingredients, sourcing and attention to regional traditions. An added challenge is to be aware of dietary preferences. Low-sodium and low-fat beckon for a flavorful answer that remains true to expected ethnic flavors. And as organic products are still among the fastest growing grocery categories, following global cuisine trends with certified organic ingredients makes all the sense in the world.

Jerry Tenenberg is founder of The Great Spice Company and vice president of supply chain management for High Quality Organics (HQO), the new company formed by the merger of The Great Spice Company with Organic Herb Trade. With over 20 years experience in the industry, he travels the world from end to end personally managing the selection and sourcing of certified farms and suppliers who meet the exacting standards for quality and commitment to organic and fair trade practices in partnership with HQO. HQO is now the largest organic spice, seasoning and food ingredient company in the United States, with over 500 certified organic and natural ingredients including herbs, spices, fruit, vegetables, mushrooms, beans, botanicals, IQF products and teas. Jerry can be reached at jtenenberg@HQOrganics.com.